Pages

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Tour de Jogja-Semarang part 2

The sun shines bright today. A sign for us to continue our trip. And the destination for today is Semarang, the capital city of Central Java, also known as the city of Lumpia as well.
Lumpia is kind of Chinese origin pastry similar to spring roll. It is a thin crepe which is rolled to wrap the filling. The filling could be chicken, meat or veggies.


Lumpia Semarang itself is filled with bamboo shoots,some veggies and meat/chicken. It is served with chili pepper and baby shallot. OK, enough talking about food, i get my mouth-watering already,lol.

We went to Semarang from Jogja around 07.30. First we went to Terminal Jombor to find a bus to Semarang. There are two bus actually, economy and exclusive one. This bus takes 3 hours approximately to arrive at Terminal Terboyo, Semarang. I was sleeping along the way, left Elly being flirted by an old man, lol, tut mir leid meine Kamerad :D

And we finally arrived at Terminal Terboyo, Semarang. First impression thing about this city is the weather. It is HOT AS HELL... The sun really really burnt out our skin.
But the show must go on. Then we went to our first spot in Semarang by DAMRI bus.

First Spot : Kota Lama (Old Town,or Outstadt in Dutch)

The Old Town is....old,lol. It is a complex of Dutch colonial heritage buildings in Semarang. Generally, the buildings follow 18th century European architecture. And the roads here are paved. Unlike Kota Tua in Jakarta, Kota Lama is more desolate and abandoned. Seems like the government doesnt do much to keep this heritage.

And another part of this complex is used as market and a place for public transportation to wait the passengers. Despite of it, we still kept continuing explore this area. Walked along the street to explore every side in the Old Town.


We saw the Gereja Blenduk or Blenduk Church. Blenduk means "dome" in Javanese language. As easily guess, it must be named due to it's red dome. The Curch is still used for religious activities, and there was a sunday Mass held at the moment. Then we walked again around the Old Town under the sun beam shower and saw more dilapidated buildings.


Kinda hot and tired frankly, but didnt stop our narcissism bones. Yeah, we still took photographs all the way, while people around were watching us. Risked our life as well, cos we also took photographs in the middle of the street, outran from passing vehicles :D


Watching the Old Town made my mind wanders. There must be alot of story behind every corner. Each windows, each doors, each walls and each ruins has its own story. This old buildings have something.
It's like a mature fair lady, wrinkly yet its beauty at past still exist. She doesn't need thick make up all over her, just a clean up. Then her grace will reveal naturally.

And uh, close from the Blenduk Curch i saw couple wearing wedding suits. They have had a prewedding photographic session. Seems like they chose the Old Town for it's colonial romanticism
(Talking about colonial romanticism reminds me of Klaas-Jan Huntelaar,dunno why,lol).
After chilled out our dry throat with ice tea, we went to the next destination, Lawang Sewu.

Second Spot : Lawang Sewu (The Thousand Doors)


Lawang Sewu is located at Tugu Muda round. Earned its name from the numerous doors and windows (doesn't reach a thousand though), this building gets the fame because of its spookiness.
First glance from outside, Lawang Sewu doesn't look like a haunted building, moreover we came there at midday. Later when we entered it, the eerie atmosphere slightly felt.
I even could imagine, the Dutchmen walked in the hall and passed along corridors and the stairs that beautified with stained glass art on the wall behind.


They used the building as the NIS (Nederlands-Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij) office. Well, i know then that Javanese term for Sepur or train comes from Spoor ^_^.
They also used this building as a function hall, proven from its ballroom on 2nd floor.

Then Lawang Sewu changed into tortured camp during Japan invasion. The guide even showed us the torturing room and the cell. He told us too that the corpses were thrown into a river behind the Lawang Sewu.


And sometimes, they were headless...uugghhh. There is a chamber under the building, but now it is closed. Someone has died in the underground chamber because of been possesed by spirit. That's why it is closed.

Contented with spooky tour in Lawang Sewu, we continued to the last destination in Semarang, Sam Poo Kong temple.

Third Spot : Kelenteng Sam Poo Kong ( Sam Poo Kong Temple)


Still under the hot sun beam at Semarang, we arrived at Sam Poo Kong temple. Red is everywhere, this temple is so Chinese indeed. Two dragons coil on top of main gateway.
Inside, they sell burn incenses and rent royal Chinese costumes out (in case the visitors want to take photographs in costume).


We took some photographs inside the temple, but pity us, we could not enter praying building.
Based on the story i've ever read, this temple was built as a memorial building for Ceng Ho, a Chinese admiral who voyaged to Asia and Africa.


This day i travel in hunger. Only ate a portion of siomay bandung at noon in front of Lawang Sewu. Yeah rite, instead of trying local cuisine, i ate Bandung-origin cuisine in Semarang :P.
Whereas Semarang known for Lumpia and Bandeng Presto (smoked milkfish which is cooked in high pressure cooker), we didn't try any of it at all T_T
We went back to Jogja in the afternoon by executive bus. A little cool treat after a hot journey in Semarang.

Today expenses:
Pedicab + bus to Jombor = IDR 7,5K
Jogja-Semarang(Terboyo) = IDR 18K (economy bus)
Bus in Semarang = IDR 2K
Lawang Sewu = IDR 5K + 20K for tour guide
Kota Lama and Sam Poo Kong = no charge
Semarang-Jogja = IDR 35K (executive bus)


*by the way, i ever heard a funny jokes about Lumpia, here is the story:

There is a foreigner who ate his first lumpia in Indonesian restaurant. He likes the taste so much, then he asked to the waiter who can't speak English well. This is their dialogue.
Foreigner : This is so delicious, what is this?
Waiter : That is Lumpia,mister.
Foreigner : What are the fillings?
Waiter : Chicken,mister. And ummm..... (thinking hard)
Young bamboo stick mister
Foreigner : Young bamboo stick? You mean that the bamboo is not ripe yet?
Waiter : Yes mister,not ripe, not old
Foreigner : Well, if young bamboo stick tastes this delicious, the old one must be more delicious, rite?
Waiter : .......

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Tour de Jogja-Semarang part 1

It's my first-official-backpacking-trip. I made plan with Elly since a few month ago to travel to Jogjakarta and Semarang, Central Java. And here I am now, starting my first day in Jogjakarta.
I went with bus from Cikarang yesterday afternoon. It took about 15 hours to arrive at Terminal Jombor, Jogjakarta. Yeah, what took us so long is the traffic jam.

Based on research we've done before, we looked for motel at Jl.Sosrowijayan. Poor for us, it was peak season n we haven't made any reservation yet. So we finally found a motel -kinda forget it's name-. We got a room with two beds, a fan and a bathroom inside, it is a bit stinky anyway, beggar cannot be chooser,huh? :D
Actually, there are soooo many motels there, it's just not our luck to get that room :D

Small tips for you, if you want to visit Jogja at peak season, make sure you already make a reservation first. You can see here just to compare the price cos as i said before, there are many cheap motels to choose. One recommended motel is "105 Homestay", it's placed at Sosrowijayan, clean, cheaper and a way more cozy than the motel i've stayed before.

After put our backpack at motel, we went to Kraton Jogja by pedicab. Fyi, there are hundreds of human pedicab here. And each of them will offer you a ride to go anywhere in Jogja. The one with us, took us to Kraton Jogja, Taman Sari and Benteng Vredeburg. And he waited for us while we were exploring those spots. Wew, felt like our own pedicab driver, but yes he was :D

First Spot: Kraton Jogja (Sultan Palace)


The Kraton Jogja, or in formal terms Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat is the principal residence of Sultan and his family. The current Sultan is Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X.
From its fancy halls, spacious courtyards and pavilion this Kraton looks oh-so-Javanese. And little touch of European style add enchanting value. No wonder this place captivates tourists, either local or foreign. There are some part of places inside Kraton that can be entered by tourists and some are prohibited. I wonder if i were Sultan's family and live in Kraton i would get distracted :D


Bangsal Kencana is one of prohibited part to enter, so i just took picture in front of it. Part of Kraton is used as museum and holds some collections such as gamelan instruments, royal carriages, etc. The museum contains collection of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX. We could see his pictures, medals of honor, suits, hobbies stuffs and so on.

In other part of museum there is a room that holds batik collection. A lady statue who is drawing batik welcomes us at the entrance. We could see dioramas of such procession, equipment to draw batik, some batik collections. Ah, and there is a well inside the room. Yea...i'm not joking, a well, and it is there in the room. It is an empty well, and trellised. I saw it's bottom though, and it's full of coins. According to the guide, peoples have superstition that throwing coins into the well will bring good luck or something. I dont know whether it is true or not, i didn't try it :D


One thing that would remind me most of Kraton Jogja is the abdi dalem. Abdi dalem are court servant who subjugate their services to Kraton, Sultan and his extended family. They are low-paid, but very loyal. A lot of them are getting old by ages, but their devotion do not faded at all.

I almost forget to mention about the shadow puppet show which was performed in Kraton. The shadow puppet or Wayang Kulit is one of Indonesian heritage that has been acknowledged by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Bravo Indonesia (^_^)V
Performance of shadow puppet show is accompanied by gamelan (musical ensemble from Indonesia, typically from Java or Bali). I dont know exactly what was they were playing, but some foreign tourists i saw seems like enjoying the show ^_^

Second Spot: Taman Sari (Water Castle)


Formerly, Taman Sari was a place for Sultan and his family's recreation. Other function is used as hiding place for royal family from enemy attack. Once we enter, there is spacious yard which was used for performing traditional dance (as said by the tour guide). Then we will enter the bathing pool, inner and outer pool. In outer pool there are two pools, one for children, one for women.

Between inner and outer pool there is building for Sultan. He might peep...oh no, i mean he might watch women swimming in the outer pool, then he might ask one of them to accompany him. To show which one he choose, Sultan throws her jasmine flower( there are lotta jasmine plants in the Taman Sari).

I wonder why does this building have no doors, in as much as the building consists of several rooms. The guide explained us that it's the philosophy of openness. Actually, there are many philosophy along with Javanese building, particularly this Taman Sari. The architecture itself is a mixture and symbolization of interfaith harmony.

Then we went to the underground tunnel by walking through narrow alley in Kampung or village around the site. The villagers sell batik craft here, batik clothes and batik paintings. The underground tunnel is such a passageways to the Sultan palace.

There is secret tunnel too, according to the legend it connects to South Sea or Laut Selatan (The Indian Ocean) where Nyai Roro Kidul lives. In Javanese folklore, Nyai Roro Kidul is a supernatural queen of the South Sea. But the secret tunnel now is closed.


In the tunnel we could see such a circle construction which formerly used as praying room. In the center of the the praying room, there is a well for ablution, but it's dry now.
Around the Taman Sari complex lies some ruins, and they've been restored.

Third Spot: Benteng Vredeburg (Vredeburg Fortress)


This museum is kinda quiet and spooky. Inside i only saw dioramas and i didn't explore more. Outside there are few people took some photographs, yeah...you know, museum, vintage style.
Once, when we're inside museum there's a moment which caused us run out. Kinda goosebumping because of spookiness :D

Fourth Spot: Alun Alun Kidul

After spooky moment inside Benteng Vredeburg, we went to Alun-Alun Kidul or The South Square. It is famous for the-walking-through-two-banyan-trees-with-eyes-closed attraction, lately i know this is called Masangin. The belief says that those who succesfully do it will get blessings.

After renting black scarf to close the eyes, i tried the Masangin, just for fun. And....yaayyy, i did it successfully. No cheating, no peeping, just walking quickly ^_^



Then we bought Ronde, a warm ginger-taste liquid containing peanut, bread chunks, sugar palm fruit, and rounded rice dough. Such a perfect beverage to accompany everyone while enjoying afternoon atmosphere at South Square. Not only beverages, food are sold here too. Leker(thin crispy pancakes), fried mushrooms, fried bananas, and many more.

We went back to motel at dusk. After cleaning up our body, we go to Malioboro for the reason of our hungry stomach. It's crowded there, pedestrians, pedicabs, horsecarts load the road. And many Lesehan lie along the pavements. They set up open front tents, lay out straw mat and put small tables to place the food.

While we're eating, some minstrels entertained us with their guitar and voice. What a wonderful way to end up this first blissful day at Jogja. Now it's time to sleep, take a rest. Another journey is still waiting tomorrow ^__^

Travelling expenses:
Cikarang - Jogja (Terminal Jombor) on bus = IDR 120K
Transjogja = IDR 3K
Motel rate = IDR 100K
Pedicab = IDR 15K /bargainable (a tip for you, choose older one, mostly they are very bargainable :D)

Entrance ticket:
Kraton Jogja = IDR 5K + 1K for camera
Taman Sari = IDR 3K + 20K for tour guide (5K is okay for them actually ~_~")
Benteng Vredeburg = IDR 1,5K

Food and beverage:
Ronde = IDR 3,5K
Snack(leker,fried mushroom,etc) = IDR 1K ~ 10K
Dinner at Malioboro = varies, from IDR 10K ~ 30K